~ In This Winter Issue ~



Notes from the Editor
By Nancy Benussi


Our New School
By Marc Vetri


Our Farmers
By Jeff Michaud


On the Keeper
By Brett Taylor

Carrello di Fromaggi

By Steve Wildy



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Notes from the Editor
By Nancy Benussi



Thesedays with frost on the trees outside it's nice to know there is a
firebuilt every day when I come to work. The smell of burning wood makes
methink of a time when every home had a hearth where folks came in
fromthe cold to warm up and there was always something simmering in a
potor roasting over the flames for dinner. Those rustic images were
theinspiration for Osteria. In Italy people still live that way,
thehearth may have been replaced by the stove, but the table remains
thecenter of the culture. The farmers they buy their meat and produce
fromare their neighbors and families. Chef Jeff tells us a little about
thefarmers we've gotten to know in our area and Brett tells us about
oneof our favorite importers in the On the keeper section. Also
weighingin is Steve from Vetri, who has joined our newsletter with
Carrello deFromaggi his column about artisan cheeses.

Last summer's remodel at Vetri turned out so nicely that Marcand Jeff,
creatively inspired, took a new look at Osteria. We've madesome changes
to the dining rooms, re-worked the space and had somegreat tables made
for the bar area. Work has also begun on our new demokitchen. Soon we'll
host cooking demonstrations, tasting dinners withthe chefs and wine and
cheese classes. Marc writes a little more aboutthe demo space in this
edition. We'll post a schedule when the room iscompleted. We are all
very excited about our new project and hope tosee you there.

Our continuing project to fight childhood disease is goingstrong. The
Vetri Foundation for Children is being developed to helpconcentrate our
charitable efforts. We'll put information on ourwebsites as it comes
together if you're interested in helping ourcause. Plans are well
underway for our 5th annual Great Chef's Eventbenefiting the Alex's
Lemonade Stand foundation fund cancer research.It will be held on
Wednesday June 17th. We're closing down Broad Streetagain and it's going
to be incredible. There's an all star cast linedup and literally the
best food to be had in this country will beserved. We have entertainment
planned, even a v.i.p. event. We'll letyou know by e-mail when the
tickets go on sale. They do sell outquickly so you'll have to act fast.
To see some photos from last year'sevent go to alexslemonadestand.org.

In past newsletters we've profiled our management team and I am
pleasednow to introduce Sous Chef Dave Clarke, Dining room Manager
AndrewBitting and Sommelier Bill McKinley. We welcome them into the
family aswe say a heartfelt good-by to Joey Baldino and Brett Taylor.
After manyyears, both these young talents are moving on to new
beginnings. Theycame from Vetri to open the restaurant, showed us the
ropes and got usall through everything with heart and humor. We miss
them both and knowthey'll do great things. Take Care Friends.
Cheers!
Nancy



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Our New School
By Marc Vetri



I've always enjoyed sharing what I've learned with others. It's what I
was taught in Italy and it has become a fundamental exercise since I
have become a chef. The looks on young cooks faces as they gain
understanding of basic principles of cooking is at times as rewarding as
preparing the food myself.

I am constantly asked if I know of a good cooking school, class, or some
place one can learn more about cooking. Often, they just want to see
some interesting things that they can take away with them and become
experimental and more creative in the kitchen. I always invite them
into our kitchen for a night and share with them as much as we possibly
can. The return is great, the smiles on their faces are so telling, and
they leave with an inside look at the simplicity of our cooking.

Through Osteria, we have come to know that the customers are
appreciative when we bring things to them that are not readily
available. We sometimes bring great chefs and great winemakers to
Osteria for special events. We source interesting ingredients for
people to try as well as an abundance of unusual wines. Again, the
smiles on their faces and the overwhelming positive feedback we receive
from them are second to none.

This year we are making it even easier to experience the unique aspects
of our restaurant on an intimate level. We have transformed the prep
kitchen at Osteria into our own culinary school. The plan is to offer
more programs, events, book signings, chef dinners and winemakers for
smaller groups of people to increase the interactive nature of the
events. The giant butcher block table in the middle of the room will
seat up to 14 people. In addition to the classes such as pasta making,
pizza making, wine tasting and cheese courses we will feature chefs and
winemakers from all over the world to talk about their philosophies and
principles. Guests will also have the opportunity to host multi-course
dinners prepared by me or Jeff Michaud personally. Choose your theme
and leave the worry to us!

I really look forward to sharing this new project with you. And I hope
that it is as exciting for you as it is for me.



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Our Farmers
By Jeff Michaud



Green Meadow Farm
Green Meadow Farm is located in Gap, Pa and is run by Glenn and Ian
Brendle. We have been supporting Green Meadow for more than 10 years,
since the opening of Vetri. They farm on about 6 acres of land and 4200
square feet of greenhouse, so we are able to buy fresh from them year
round. Every Thursday afternoon Ian, Glenn's son, delivers the items we
order on Monday. We purchase from Green Meadow all of our milk, cream
and eggs and I think there are none better than fresh eggs from the
farm. The list changes with the seasons and the items highlight our
seasonal menus. Glenn also specializes in micro greens and baby
lettuces. The flavor and quality of the products they provide can not
be found in the supermarket, only on the farm. Vegetables and fruits
are picked fresh and ripe right before they are delivered. I always
look forward to the summer time when peaches are in season, their's are
the sweetest and juiciest variety I have ever eaten. Glenn also works
with other farmers to provide a larger product list. He supports local
meat farmers and offers a selection of meat, poultry and pork. Osteria
is very happy to have developed a great relationship with Green Meadow
over the years and we will continue to help them grow as they help us.

Country Time Farm
Country Time is a small hog farm run by Paul "Pauly the pig farmer" as
hefs affectionately known around Philadelphia and his wife Ember
Crivellaro. Their land is located at the base of the Blue mountains in
Berks, Pa. The farm is an all natural, antibiotic and hormone free
farm. Paul and Ember supply all of the pork we use at the restaurant
and the quality is always above and beyond your normal pork. Paul
slaughters the pigs on Tuesday and they are brought to us on Thursday,
you can't get any fresher than that. Paul also works at the butcher
shop where the pigs are slaughtered, so he is there from start to finish
making sure his product is handled properly. His pork is used all over
our menu from making salami to curing coppa and pancetta to our infamous
pork milanese. It is our feeling that restaurants need to be more in
touch with their farmers and help keep them in business, providing our
diners with top quality product. Paul and Ember have been coming to
Vetri for the past 6 years and to Osteria since opening in '07. We look
forward to many more years of business and friendship with the
Crivellaro's.

Culton Farm
Culton Farm is located in Silver Springs, Pa in the heart of Lancaster.
Tom Culton contacted us about 1 year ago and told us about his farm, so
we decided to take a field trip and see what he was all about. His farm
is 53 acres and as of this year he farms 15 acres himself. What
surprised us when we arrived was the type of produce he was producing on
land that wasn't irrigated. Tom farms on some of the richest soil in
all of Pa and grows only heirloom varieties. He produces more than 50
varieties of tomatoes all grown without any pesticides or chemicals.
Tom is a strong believer in organic farming though his farm is not yet
certified. The slow food movement is what he is trying to keep alive
just like us, keeping old traditions and old varieties around that are
nearly extinct. In the year ahead he is expanding his farm to include
animals. We wish Tom a very successful career and we will be here
helping him to grow any way we can.


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On the Keeper
So Where Exactly Do We Get All Of These Wonderful Wines?

By Brett Taylor



Often, when Bill and I are serving wine to a table, the conversation
reverts back to how the guest can obtain some of the selections on our
list. We then go into a brief discussion about going through the PLCB to
obtain some of these selections through a process called SLO, but more
importantly, try to shed some light on the small importers and
distributors that we rely on to bring us selections befitting our
restaurant. One such importer is Palateur Imports headed by Mark Monaco.
We have had a growing relationship for quite a while now and are always
excited when he brings his boutique, artisinally produced offerings for
us to try. He has expanded our horizons in the dessert wine, sparkling
wine and spirit categories and continues to reinforce our understanding
of the supreme quality of small production operations. The next time you
are at the restaurant, you must try one of his dessert selections, or
even the Bas-Armagnac by Delord that we feature - simply delicious.

Mark began this small operation with the intent of bringing small
production, high-quality products into the United States showing the
best quality focused establishments the importance of carrying such
beverages. He focuses his portfolio around sparkling and sweet wines,
but also represents some still red, white and small-batch spirits. He
also has a stemware website, sparklingstemware.com that offers
high-quality stemware to complement the products that he imports.

With all of these wonderful products to choose from, we have always
featured many of the dessert wines that he features by the bottle and by
the glass. Some interesting selections include Chateau d'Orignac Pineau
des Charentes; a delicious blend of aged cognac and unfermented wine
combined and aged for 10 years in cask. Deep amber in color with a nose
of raisins, honey and almonds, the flavor is a beautiful combination of
a cognac foundation with gingerbread and almond nuances. Another
spectacular offering that serves as a fantastic alternative to cognac is
the Delord Bas-Armagnacs that we currently have on the dessert list.
Whether a vintage selection or the Napoleon suits your tastes, the
woodsy, vanillin nose and bright, brandied fruit on the palate gives
provides a perfect warmer for the winter months.

We hope to see you soon at Osteria and encourage you to ask about our
current selections so that we can find something that suits you
perfectly. Whether it is Armagnac, vin santo, or beautiful vin de liquor
made from the finest Cognac and Bordeaux grapes, we are sure that you
will be delighted with the perfect end to a great experience.


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Carrello di Fromaggi

By Steve Wildy



The Cheeses of Piemonte
In the same way that we cannot talk about great Italian wine without
mentioning the reds and whites of Piedmont, the region is also home to
some of the greatest cheeses produced in Italy. Observant guests will
notice that classic Piedmontese dishes, as well as ingredients and
preparations, are heavily represented on Chef Michaud's menu - this is,
after all, the source of white truffles, hazelnuts, Arborio rice, and
porcini mushrooms. So it is fitting that both the wine list and the
cheese cart follow suit on a nightly basis. As one of Europe's most
classic cheese-producing regions, Piedmont has an impressive assemblage
of DOP (denominazione di origine controlatta) status formaggi that
frequent the cheese plate at Osteria.



Robiola
Traditionally a mixed milk cheese of sheep, goat, and cow, Robiola is
typically rich, soft, and creamy, with a sweet milky finish that
discerns it from its more pungent, spicy, and earthy cousin of the same
name from Lombardia. It's easy to compare some to French Brie due to
textural and flavor similarities (and the fact that both are classically
enriched with cream), but Robiola has a distinct heritage of its own and
can be made in a wide range of styles. At its best, such as Robiola
Bosina or Robiola di Roccaverano, it has the ability to be all at once
luscious and layered, with a satiny, oozy paste and tangy finish.

Wine suggestions: A crisp Piedmontese white like Arneis or Gavi will
slice through the richness of a particularly unctuous Robiola, while a
soft, juicy Barbera or Dolcetto d'Alba will envelop it nicely.

Bra
Made from raw cow's milk in and around a village near Alba of the same
name, Bra is another cheese that can be made in a number of styles,
ranging from supple, mild, and snowy white to slightly crumbly, piquant,
and straw-colored. We typically prefer Bra Duro (hard), of the latter
style, due to it's increased complexity and character. It often
displays flavors similar to those of a rustic cheddar, with balanced
sharpness, spice, and a rich, intricate finish.

Wine suggestions: A number of vintners that you are likely to see on the
wine list here are based directly next to Bra, in neighboring Alba, and
as a result represent a truly classic regional pairing. For example,
there is a good chance that Alessandro Rivetto is enjoying a glass of
his single vineyard Barbera d'Alba with a plate of Bra Duro or Tenero
(tender) any given day of the week.

Testun
Testun translates to "stubborn" in the local dialect of Cuneo, perhaps a
nod to the intense 12-month ripening process that the cheese goes to.
This extended maturation leads to an unbelievable depth of flavor and
texture, which is boosted by the striking addition of a Nebbiolo-must
coating in our favorite interpretation, Testun al Barolo. Primarily
sheep or goat's milk with a little cow, Testun al Barolo is wrapped with
the leftover skins and seeds from local Barolo production, lending an
intense grapey flavor, resulting in a cheese that is sweet, fruity,
tangy, crystalline, and spicy all at the same time.

Wine suggestions: What better to pair with this than the last few
glasses from a bottle of Barolo enjoyed through the course of an
evening? The sweet, grapey nature of the cheese offsets the rustic,
earthy note in the wine and allows more of the licoricey-sweet Barolo
fruit to shine through.

Castelmagno
Perhaps Piemonte's most elusive and extolled cheese, Castelmagno is
rarely available due to seasonality and the minute scale of its
production. Produced since the 12th century, local legend has it that
this was Charlemagne's favorite, and the cause of at least one 30 year
war between Cuneo and Saluzzo (beginning 1200 AD, supposedly over 30
wheels of Castelmagno!). Subtle, complex, and perfectly salty, it has a
beguiling shortbread cookie texture that is immediately crumbly and
moments later dissolving into a rush of salty-sweet-tangy harmony.

Wine suggestions: Style-wise Castelmagno shares a lot in common with the
Nebbiolo grape of the same region: it can be difficult, angular,
layered, complex, but ultimately intensely rewarding. A classic
Nebbiolo in a light to medium-bodied style or a more floral Barbaresco
will complement without overpowering.

Remember to check in with the frequently updated cheese selection at
Osteria to see which of these Piedmontese classics is available.